So today saw me once again waking up with the early morning light and heading out to take advantage of the cool temperatures. Today's ride was supposed to be shorter so I had every hope of being able to finish by 12:00 if I left early enough. But more on that later.
Its a little freeing and sort of eerie to be riding through a town in Arizona at 5:45 in the morning. I was riding down one of the main avenues and saw almost no cars at all, all of the major businesses (Carl's Jr., Wendy's, The Two Starbucks, etc.) were not yet open and the town was quiet with just the beginnings of dawn touching the buildings. It was me, my bike and the sun. I only had five miles or so to the California/Arizona border and I was enjoying the freedom of being the only one on the road. Oh, did I mention it was already 70 degrees?
Once I got to the border I had to engage in this convoluted way to get across the Colorado river. Now, considering this is the state that begat Ron Paul and Governor Jan Brewer, I half expected to see armed state police, or at least National Guardsmen waiting halfway across the pedestrian bridge to make sure I was not "undesirable" or at least that I hadn't any California produce on me (I didn't).
It was a rather pleasant ride to Quartzite although I had to ride on the shoulder of I-10 with all the big trucks whizzing by and all. It was when I pulled off the highway to refill my water supply at the Love's Truck stop that the weirdness kicked in - next to the Love's was a huge used car lot and in front of it was an armored half-track with a sign on the side that said "Military 4 Ron Paul". Hmmmm, a hostile takeover bid? I saw more of these signs scattered about as I passed through Quartzite although no more Army surplus vehicles appeared (whewwww!).
Although it was starting to heat up I was enjoying the morning as I had found a system of relieving the pressure on my posterior somewhat and I was able to look about a bit more. And I noticed that we finally were seeing Saguaro Cactus everywhere! We had seen them on the Planet Earth dvd and on the way out but now I could see them up close and personal and it was so cool. I could see which ones were blooming and which ones were bearing fruit. I could even see birds flying in and out of the cactii seeking shelter from the heat. And every now and then up on a desolate slope I could see a Lone Saguaro standing sentry against invaders from the valley floor below.
And then I realized that the gentle four percent climb I was on was still going up! All in all it went up for 10 miles!!!! A lot of pedaling uphill and it wasn't even 9:00 in the morning yet. But here is where I started to get a little nervous as my water supply was running low. I have pretty much begun to use my little one drink a mile trick to motivate me and conserve water but now I was dangerously low. However, I was very happy becuase the town of Brenda was just two miles away and I could make that. Besides, Amy and the kids would probably come along soon anyway.
And here is where I cursed the Adventure Cycling Association maps! Whereas yesterday they were wrong about the general store being open (it was) they said that Brenda had a grocery store that should be open. And so full of anticipation for some nice cold beverage I rolled up and then I noticed the lights off and the big "For Sale" signs on the windows - gaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh! I checked the next place down the street - "Closed for the Season"! Now I had nowhere to get water and I was down to half a bottle and half of my bladder of ice water - and 11 miles to the next stop! Not to worry, I left a message for Amy on her cell and I sat down to rest in the shade of a bush for a few minutes. I must have dozed off becuase five minutes I realized I needed to push on and let Amy catch me.
So I headed off towards Hope, AZ and I was "hoping" (couldn't resist) that the restaurant shown on my map for Vicksburg would actually be open. And here is where I passed one of the most depressing areas we have passed through. Everyone I turned stores were closed or there were RV parks closed for the season, or there would be stores and properties for sale. I reminded me of that scene from the movie Cars where Sally tells Lighting about how the town used to be prosperous before the Interstate was built. It looked like this area used to thrive but now with no commerce there was no reason for people to live there or shop there.
And yet I pedaled on. No Vannikan Roadwalker in sight.
I finally reached Vicksburg, AZ and there was a restaurant open - the KOFA Diner - yayyyyy!!!!! I went in and offered to pay for ice water but the waitress waved that off, so I bought a huge 32 oz Mountain Dew instead. And then got a free refill. I finished it up, thanked her for her kindness and then remounted - only 11 miles to go!!!!
On the way I passed through Hope, AZ. Again, a very small town with not much in it to pique interest until I came upon the following sign;
And I had a very sad thought, all that money for a great sign and they mispelled it.
I kept counting down the miles and rationing my water and execting to see the van coming down the road but no van as I reached Haucuva, three miles outside of Salome. I was empty again so I went into a restaurant/bar and they refilled me for free again. A great place called Buckaroo's which had a great looking menu and a Western theme (go figure).
And 20 minutes later I was rolling into Salome "Where She Danced", AZ. After inquiring at the Post Office I found the motel and walked into what William described as "the coolest Motel ever!!!!" As soon as we have pictures loaded up I'll put some photos up of the place, the Westward Motel. After cleaning up (and feeling remarkably good) we went in search of groceries and pizza. We bought the fixings for meat and black bean loaf and dropped it off before going to (of all places) Buckaroo's - where we had some amazing pizza.
As we returned I got to meet Rande our host who told me that three members of one of the Race Across America teams came through here just a few days agoand stayed in this very hotel - I feel so honored to be following in their tire tracks! Then the kids had the best surprise of all - parked on the street outside was a HUUUUUUGGGEEEEEEE John Deere harvesting machine! Again, as soon as we get the photo loaded I'll show you the biggest vehicle I have ever stood next to! The driver said he harvests from Southern Arizona all the way up to Canada and back and he was no headed up for North Dakota - and he was Austrlian, it was so cool!
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| (Please Honey???? Can I Get One?????) |
Oh, and the reports for the day;
FFR - 1 squirrel, 2 UFO's (one of which was becoming part of the Circle of Life by way of two of the biggest crows I have ever seen!)
RRL - 1 Packing Blanket, 1 cooler top, LOTS OF GARBAGE EVERYWHERE.
And that's it for now,
Stay well and I'll update from the road!
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